The main application for 8TZ CR close end airtight & waterproof zipper
The 8TZ CR close end airtight & waterproof zipper can be used for below products:
Dry suit
Chemical protective suit
Water walking ball
and other sealed suit and products
A high-tech company who are specializing in developing, manufacturing and marketing airtight zippers, airproof zipper, watertight zipper and waterproof zippers for over 20 years in china.
The 8TZ CR close end airtight & waterproof zipper can be used for below products:
Dry suit
Chemical protective suit
Water walking ball
and other sealed suit and products
Cover: navigation engine, electropult, weapon ammo, exploder, and chemical, missile, airplane, important instrument and container.
Protection: space suit, diving suit, immersion suit, life jacket, fishery suit, protective clothing, decompression clothing, radiation protective
clothing.
Others: air lock room, water walking ball, tent, life raft, survival instrument, shipping instrument, hovercraft, water bed and so on.
Difference between 8# TPU waterproof zipper & 8TZ CR airtight zipper.
Neoprene (also polychloroprene or pc-rubber) is a family of synthetic rubbers that are produced by polymerization of chloroprene. This is the same fabric used by scuba divers and surfers for their wetsuits. It a high-quality material that holds up during competitive sports. It has several desirable features: Strong and resistant to tears, Completely waterproof and repels spills, Comfortable feel that does not irritate the skin. Neoprene exhibits good chemical stability and maintains flexibility over a wide temperature range. Neoprene is sold either as solid rubber or in latex form and is used in a wide variety of applications, such as laptop sleeves, orthopaedic braces (wrist, knee, etc.), electrical insulation, liquid and sheet applied elastomeric membranes or flashings, and automotive fan belts. Neoprene is produced by free-radical polymerization of chloroprene. In commercial production, this polymer is prepared by free radical emulsion polymerization. Polymerization is initiated using potassium persulfate. Bifunctional nucleophiles, metal oxides (e.g. zinc oxide), and thioureas are used to crosslink individual polymer strands.
Thermoplastic polyurethane (TPU) is an elastomer that is fully thermoplastic. Like all thermoplastic elastomers, TPU is elastic and melt-processable. Further, it can be processed on extrusion as well as injection, blow and compression molding equipment. It can be vacuum-formed or solution-coated and is well suited for a wide variety of fabrication methodologies. Thermoplastic polyurethane (TPU) is any of a class of polyurethane plastics with many properties, including elasticity, transparency, and resistance to oil, grease and abrasion. Technically, they are thermoplastic elastomers consisting of linear segmented block copolymers composed of hard and soft segments.
Airproof zippers are zippers that have been specially designed and treated to resist damage from dust, chemical fumes, gases and above average atmospheric pressure. Usually made out of vulcanized chloroprene rubber, airtight zippers find use in a wide variety of industrial and chemical applications (e.g. decompression clothing, space suits, immersion suits, marine sportswear, etcetera).
Due to the nature of their construction, airtight zippers should be handled and treated differently from normal zippers. Here are a few tips on how they can be properly fixed and cleaned.
Fixing A Broken Zipper
The zipper can break if the cross-tension on the zipper chain is too high. Fortunately, this can be easily fixed.
①After cleaning the chain, check if the zipper is broken all the way down to the stopper. If so, read on.
②Slowly close the first inch of the zipper by hand. Make sure that the slider is in a closed part of the chain and pull the slider to the stopper.
③Open and close the zipper a few times and add wax on the chain for further lubrication.
Removing Dirt/Sand/Grime
Dirt, sand, and grime can cause the zipper to unnecessarily tighten and malfunction.
①Brush using a small soft brush or piece of cloth both the inside and outside of the zipper to ensure that there are no dust or dirt particles attached.
②Clean the zipper using a solution made out of mild soap and water, then rinse the zipper with clean water.
Applying Lubrication
①Fully open the zipper and apply the wax directly on the chain. But be careful not to apply too much wax. Space the wax application every four inches or so.
②Open and close the zipper several times to spread the lube.
③Wipe off the excess with a soft cloth.
The airproof zipper is the most sensitive part of a drysuit and, as such, it requires some care after use. With proper maintenance, drysuit zippers can last a very long time.
Take a look at some of the steps that can be taken to keep the drysuit zippers clean and operating smoothly.
Cleaning the Drysuit
After each use, the suit needs a good cleaning to make sure that salt and other contaminants get washed out of the zipper. It’s important to wash off the entire drysuit — both inside and out and make sure that any sand or dirt that has accumulated in and around the zipper is thoroughly washed off. If a piece of dirt gets stuck in the zipper, do not try to force the zip to close — clean it first and then zip the drysuit up.
Never machine wash or dry clean the drysuit — this can damage the zippers.
Once the drysuit has been washed, it’s best to hang it up — either with the help of a drysuit hanger or upside down so that it is thoroughly drained.
Storing the Drysuit
Store the drysuit in a cool or dry place — high temperatures and humidity can cause damage to the zipper.
When storing the drysuit keep in mind that it’s best to place it on a hanger in the upright position. However, if this is not convenient, make sure that the zipper doesn’t fold in too many places and. Store drysuits with metal zippers open while you should store drysuits with plastic zippers closed.
If the drysuit won’t be used for a while, a few steps can be taken to keep the zipper in the best possible shape while it is stowed away. One of the most important steps is to cake a layer of paraffin or bees wax or a specially designed lubricant on the zipper. This will keep the zipper flexible and easy to operate whenever it is used again. However, the use of wax should be tailored to the type of zipper on the drysuit-metal or plastic. Run a block of paraffin or bees wax over the metal zipper teeth. But do not wax the plastic zipper teeth. Apply some petroleum jelly over the surfaces near the end stop.
Once dry, it is very important to store the gasproof zipper fully closed in a relaxed position, not pinched or folded. Take care of that you should not to scratch or stretch the zipper when loading.
Before storage clean with mild soapy water, rinse, dry, lubrifiant! Lubricating the zipper will keep the rubber from drying out. Make sure zipper is dry, lubed, fully closed, and not folded or pinched for storage.
When packrafting with your packrafter friends, you should always carry zipper lubrifiant in your repair kit, it is essential for the proper function and longevity of your zipper. In addition to ensuring proper function of the airtight zipper , the lubrifiant protects the gasproofzipper from drying out and from UV damage. How to care for and storage the airtight zipper. Dry your zipper. Bacterial growth is your zipper’s biggest enemy. Bacterial growth will cause the rubber of the zipper to crack and leak. It is very important to fully dry your zipper after each use. The cloth backing of the zipper holds the most water. Dry the airtight zipper by leaving it open for a day in a dry area, and longer when using your zipper in warm or tropical fresh waters. In wet/ humid areas you may wash the zipper occasionally with mild soapy water. Rinse well. Once dry, it is very important to store the zipper fully closed in a relaxed position, not pinched or folded. Take care of that you should not to scratch or stretch the zipper when loading.
Before storage clean with mild soapy water, rinse, dry, lubrifiant! Lubricating the zipper will keep the rubber from drying out. Make sure zipper is dry, lubed, fully closed, and not folded or pinched for storage.
DRYSUIT keeps you warm, dry and comfy under water, but they are also a significant investment – budget models cost more than $1,000. Drysuits require periodic servicing too, which is also pricey. Replacing a neck seal can set you back $100, a valve $125, a waterproof zipper $300 to $500. Of course, a quality drysuitcan also last you 10 years or even much longer—if you treat it right.
**Before the Dive **
Take care of your drysuit is when you’re using it. A drysuit’s most critical components—seals and zipper–are most susceptible to damage when getting into and out of the suit.
1. Pulling wrist and neck seals, especially latex seals, over your hands and head without first dusting them with talcum powder is a sure-fire formula for a ruined dive and a hefty repair bill. Talcum powder eliminates virtually all resistance between skin and seals, allowing them to slip on without stressing the rubber. In fact, when you don your suit, you should never stretch the material lengthwise and pull it over your head or wrist. You should stretch the opening as wide as possible and put you head and wrists through the seals.
2. Never zip up a waterproof zipper without first applying some zipper wax. Use only the manufacturer’s wax that’s specifically formulated for your specificdrysuit zipper. Apply the wax only on the outside of the teeth so as not to interfere with the zipper’s inner sealing surfaces. If your suit’s a rear-entry design and you need help zipping up, make sure your buddy knows what he’s doing. Drysuit zippers are heavy-duty but they’re not indestructible. Never yank; instead, stretch the zipper track out as straight as possible and apply a slow, steady pull on the zipper car while keeping the track off the undergarment so nothing gets jammed in the teeth.
3. Once you’re zipped in, squat down and pull out on the neck seal to bleed the air from the suit. Or, if possible, climb down the swim step and let water pressure do the purging for you. This second method serves a double-purpose–it neutralizes any overheating you might have generated up to this point, which makes climbing into the rest of your dive gear a lot more comfortable. Either way, by getting as much air as possible out of your drysuit now, you reduce the chance of blowing a neck seal during your giant-stride entry.
4. Remember, every time you put on or take off a dry suit you’re stressing the seals and the zipper, and putting yourself one step closer to an expensive repair. Order your suit with a relief zipper or, better, yet, a pee valve, so you won’t have to unzip and strip down every time you have to pee.
5. A torn seal not only costs time and money to repair, it ruins a day of diving, and that doesn’t come cheap either. By fitting—or retrofitting—your drysuit with an in-the-field seal replacement system, like DUI’s ZipSeals or Waterproof’s Seal System, you will never blow a day of diving because of a blown seal. If a wrist or neck seal fails, simply remove it, snap on a spare and continue on with your dive.
After the Dive. . .
6. When you climb out of the water, squeeze a few bursts of air into the suit before popping your QD hose . This makes it more comfortable walking around on deck still zipped. Immediately if possible, give the suit a thorough freshwater rinse, including seals and valve casings.
7. If it’s a fabric suit, wipe the outside down with a quick-drying micro-fibertowel and install the protective cap on the inlet valve–the last thing you want is corrosion building up inside the valve that can cause a stuck inflator button. If it’s a neoprene suit, just pad it down lightly, cap the valve, unzip and climb out.
8. If you’re going to be diving again in the next 24 to 48 hours, hang the suit inside-out to dry the dampness that occurs from typical perspiration. Don’t rinse the inside because it won’t dry in time for your next dive. However, if you’re done diving for a couple weeks or more, go ahead and rinse off the inside. This is easy to do on dry suits fitted with soft socks that can be turned completely inside-out. Suits with attached boots can be difficult, but get them turned inside-out as much as you can, keeping in mind that the insides of the boots are going to take longer to dry completely, but nonetheless must be completely dry before putting the suit into storage.
9. Hang the suit in a cool, dry place out of the sun, preferably on a dry suit hanger (heavy-duty with wide shoulder supports). Each day, turn the suit outside-in, then inside-out, then outside-in, etc. until it’s completely dry. Fabric suits dry relatively fast, a neoprene suit might take a couple days on each side. Special hangers and electric dry suit drier fans can help speed up this drying phase.
10. When the suit’s dry, lay it out on a table. Dust the wrist seals and neck seal with talcum powder so the rubber doesn’t flatten out and stick to itself when in storage. Use a very soft toothbrush to remove grit, grime and sand from the zipper’s teeth. Also, wax the zipper’s outside teeth. It’s important to leave the zipper unzipped to avoid deforming the sealing surfaces.
11. Roll the suit from boots to neck, taking care that the open zipper maintains its most natural shape. Then slip the suit in an airtight dry bag that will protect the suit from moisture and ozone. Note: Do not hang a dry suit for long-term storage. Even when using a wide-shouldered plastic hanger, over time the weight of the suit puts a lot of stress on the shoulders, plus it’s exposed to dirt, dust and ozone.
12. Stow the bag out of the sun away from auto exhaust fumes, electrical panels and electrical equipment like washers or dryers. Never stack gear on top of your dry suit; this is your big-ticket piece of gear, your long-term investment, it always goes on top, ready for your next problem-free dry diving adventure.
13. Get an annual inspection and pressure test. For $50 to $79, you can discover minor issues before they ruin a dive.
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